"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." -- Mark Twain

So Ilocos Sur!

Monday, March 24, 2008

When one mentions Ilocos Sur, the immediate thing that comes to mind is Vigan. Yup, Vigan is the heart of Ilocos Sur. But one should realize that there is more to Ilocos Sur than just Vigan. Last Holy Week, Paul, Wendy, and I came with my father to his hometown, Sta. Cruz Ilocos Norte. I had the chance to rediscover this great province and get to know more about what makes it unique.

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Here, I am listing great finds in Ilocos Sur (some may also be found in Ilocos Norte):

9. Marcia’s delicacies: Their Royal Bibingka is so delicious. You’ve got to try it! Their main branch is in Vigan and Bantay, but they also have some outlets in other parts of Ilocos Norte and in Bagiuo. One box of 6 is PhP65, and the one with 16 pieces is I think PhP160.

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8. Beaches: Yes, Ilocos Sur does have great beaches. In ouyr town, Sta. Cruz, a great beach is just a tricycle ride away. And I don’t mean the resorts where fees are collected and the shores are crowded…beaches here are actually free and you feel you rented the whole place because there are not much people around! Also, the sand is so fine, the water is cool and clear, and there are no rocks that will hurt your feet (very important!)!!!!

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7. Antique molasses maker: This antique equipment was really an amazing thing for me. The machine works this way: The tubo is placed in between the grinds, and a carabao pulls the big wood in a circular motion. The wheels of the machine turn, and the tubo is squeezed, resulting in its juice coming out. Thus, molasses are created, which may evetually be made into vinegar. Wendy and her playmate, Erika,  had fun turning the big handle around, twice pa! My father told me that this equipment is antique…a certified antique way of making vinegar! (Thanks to my sousin for showing us this unique equipment).

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6. Ilocos suka: Homemade suka that has a hint of wine, or the Basi as known in the north. There is a distinct taste to their suka… These suka can be bought at stores by the side of the road. There are a number of these in Narvacan. The 5 gallons of suka costs PhP150.

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5. Ilocos bagoong: People in Ilocos love to put bagoong in their food..and their bagoong is different from our bagoong in Manila or in the other parts of the country. If you are lucky enough to find a bagoong maker and buy directly, you will save a lot. Like the one we were able to buy was PhP250 for the big mayo container full of bagoong.

4. Churches: There are many great churches in Ilocos Norte. The one in Sta. Lucia is so grand; it’s ceiling is so beautiful. Sta. Maria church is a world heritage church. It seems so "antique." The cement in between the bricks were already slowly eroding (bricks are strong, so the cement in between holding the bricks is usually the first to give way). The church in Bantay is known for its bell tower, which stands a couple of meters away. The bell tower is open to the public and is a major tourist attraction. Paul surmised that it is called Bantay because it was used to guard against enemies like the Spanish. But my cousin told me that bantay in Ilocos meant mountain. And there’s Vigan church, standing at the heart of Vigan, visited by many tourists everyday. Something I noticed about their churches is that all (at least the ones we went to) have separate bell towers, which by themselves are already quite a sight! 

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Sta. Lucia Church (grand ceiling!)

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Sta. Maria (World Heritage)

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Bantay Church (famous bell tower)

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Vigan Church

3. Anything mapait like papaitan and diningding: Learning how these dishes are made is fascinating. For example, it turns out that the bitter taste of papaitan comes from the intestinal juice of the cow. Sometimes, when they get the intestines, there are still some grass in it..imagine putting that into your dish! However, this dish tastes great. And my father said that as you go farther up north, it becomes more and more bitter.
 

2. Tabacco: Tabacco is a major crop in Ilocos. And I had a great time learning almost everything about making tabacco…from the seeds…to how it is planted and harvested…to how it is dried and baked…to how it is classified…and to how it is rolled and smoked! Amazing! These rolled tobacco can be purchased at the palengkes at around PhP8-10 pesos for 5 sticks…ready for lighting!

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Tabacco field

 Photobucket This is where they hang and "cook" the leavves

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The leaves are cooked in a big oven (the big enclosure at the end in the picture above) 

Photobucket1. Vigan: Let’s admit that Vigan is the number 1 attraction in Ilocos Sur. Even at off-peak season, this part of Ilocos is visited by numerous tourists wanting to see the World Heritage attraction. I must admit that when we went to Vigan last Good Friday, I didn’t get to enjoy and appreciate the place so much simply because there were too many people. I am usually able to savor a place when there are few people because I get to experience a place more personally. But that doesn’t mean I wouldn’t want to go back there. On the contrary, I would love to go back…but at a time when there are few people.

Some great finds in Calle Crisologo (a great place for wood furniture)…
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Vigan’s famous empanada…vegetable (like coleslaw), ground meat, and egg yolk in a crispy crust

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"Bernie," a  St. Bernard looking over the administration office (for tourists)

Anyway, a lot has been said on the Cathedral, the empanadas, the kalesas, and of course, Calle Crisologo (which is a great place to buy wood furniture, antique or not). This time, I would focus on two places that one must also experience while in Vigan.

    Pottery making: We found this place, RG Jar Factory, outside the center of the city. They sell pottery, sometimes fresh off the oven. We checked out their kiln…and I must tell you that it is one very big kiln! The kiln, which is around 40 feet long, occupies a big room by itself. There are also many firewood, of course for baking. The place also sells overcooked and deformed pots for less price. You may also request a potter to demonstrate how to make pots, for a small fee. This is a great opportunity for one to see how these pots are made

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RG’s Big kiln!

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Some of the "overcooked" pots sold

 

     Baluarte: The mini-zoo, wherein entrance is free, is owned by Chavit Singson. There are some rare animals here, such as Macau birds (and other species as well), alpacas, tigers, ostriches, peacocks, etc. Riding the mini-horse is also free. There is also a butterfly garden. Not only is the place home to such animals, it is also a great place for picnic.

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Some of the colorful birds…

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Iguana and Chavit’s tigers (the ones he were with in his campaign posters)

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Butterfly garden

So there…my list of great finds in Ilocos Sur. I’m sure there are much more to discover. Next time. it’ll be Ilocos Norte! :)

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Posted by kumarenggrace at 6:33 pm | permalink

Previous Comments

a trip to Vigan is something to do once in lifetime. it’s one of my dream destinations. it’s like living in another time… i heard vigan is also famous for their pottery. i’d love to try it! do they allow that? anyway, great pics! well done!

btw, where’s our vigan empanada? :p

Posted by kA2X at March 27, 2008, 5:32 pm

Pwede ata magtry gumawa ng pots…you just have to ask them, although baka pagbayarin ka. About the empanada, it’s best eaten hot and crispy…not recommended for pasalubong…besaides, di ako nasarapan…hi! hi! after all the hype. Well, baka masartap talaga para sa iba!

Posted by kumarenggrace at March 27, 2008, 8:59 pm

finally! i’ve been waiting for this post on ilocos. i hope we can go there someday. really beautiful, esp calle crisologo! would also want to give pottery a try.

Posted by marco at March 28, 2008, 9:48 am

Hi grace! I love going home to Ilocos. The Batac empanada is said to taste yummier than the Vigan counterpart. Perhaps next time you can drive up farther up north, so so many more attractions in Ilocos. I also haven’t explored Ilocos Sur that much yet. Perhaps next time : )

Posted by Tricia at March 28, 2008, 12:34 pm

Marco: Punta kayo because maganda sa Ilocos…but don’t concentrate too much on Vigan. You can tour it in a day…punta rin kayo ibang parts.

Tricia: Hope I’ll get to try that Batac empanada. If you’re wishing to explore Ilocos Sur, ako naman gusto ko further up north. Someday, I hope!
:)

Posted by kumarenggrace at March 28, 2008, 3:50 pm

Ganda!!! Inggit ako!
kA2X and marco, may 2-hour pottery class sa Glorietta sa April 13(?). Sponsored ng Filipinas Heritage. Ask nyo from Grace ang phone number.

Posted by TPS at March 28, 2008, 6:57 pm

Nice! Nice! Gusto ko matikman yung empanada. Meron daw sa MOA. Dun muna ako :)

Posted by zarine at March 29, 2008, 12:30 am

“ILOCOS SUR”
. .A great place for everyone. yhup theres a lot of tourist spots pa than vigan try to explore more. thier parks, beaches and the falls.
. .inquire at D.O.T of Ilocos for more info. about thier must seen attractions and the lots of tourist spots.
. .ahhmp its better to explore Vigan heritage at night. it’s very great!

Posted by johnraven at March 8, 2010, 7:45 pm

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